Wednesday, 25 February 2009

Premature Nostalgia/Dirty Dancing (A Short Defence Of Melancholy)

Solitude. A kind of melancholy viewing photographs from the months past.[i] Meditating on the possibility of nostalgia for an activity that is, in essence, still happening. Perhaps I am more guilty of this kind of nostalgic revision than others, but in any case it’s not impossible to see how a trip of such length could entail such a sentiment.

I have been away over five months. It is now mid-february. I am, on the one hand, quite mystified as to where this time might have gone. On the other there is some evidence to suggest (a largely unelaborated lists of place names, events, smells, sights at the back of a book) that it has been spent in a wholehearted sensory overload kind of way.[ii]

So I am sat with this premature nostalgia and I’m looking at myself having it….and writing that. I suppose this is what I feared a Blog might be before I entertained the idea of having one. A self indulgent mess. I may have become my worst fear. Nevertheless I find myself considering the song ‘I’ve Had The Time Of My Life’ from the film Dirty Dancing.

I have no idea why this example above all others came to me. I can’t admit to liking the song (it reminds me of moles and bad hen nights) or for its context being at all apposite. Nevertheless it’s a song sung, we are led to believe, by two lovers who are addressing each other in the present tense and reflecting on, passionately some may say, a period in their shared recent past that is itself enduring through the course of the song. ‘I’ve had the time of my life, I’ve never felt this way before’. In this sense it seemed a good example of what  mean, of what premature nostalgia might be.

I wonder if it is a kind of nostalgia, if not precipitated by, then certainly conducive to the ‘holiday experience’ since contextually a holiday is, by definition, in parenthesis to the rest of your life. It has a clear beginning and end in time that is distinguished from one’s ‘daily life’ (whatever that may mean). Perhaps all nostalgia is merely processing information in a sentimental way and sometimes there is a temporal overlap not unlike the one used to explain deja vu. In my case this line, between 'daily life' and 'holiday' seems increasingly blurred and that is perhaps the motivation and reason for the reflective but ultimately pointless indulgences relayed here. The nomadic or holiday experience has become 'daily life'.


In any case I am lying in a hammock in Ayampe, a remote village on the coast of Ecuador. I have a cabaƱa right on the beach which has three beds of which, for two nights, I have been the sole occupant. It has a fan and a shower. It has silence or at least noise that is largely devoid of human intervention. (There are the cicadas and crickets who reach a fever pitch like a nature rave when the sun goes down. There is an insect, I don’t know what, that sounds exactly like the old dial phones used to sound when you let go after the number). It has a shop to buy basics and two restaurants that are virtually empty all the time. This place would be tranquil to the point of boredom I imagine if a complete lack of communication with the world and others hadn’t been the defining desire of your last two weeks.

The busiest the village gets is when all 20 residents and the five tourists distribute themselves into evenly spaced silhouettes along a stretch of beach 3 km long to watch the sun set. (The sun here is an enormous orange bubble that seems to deflate with great symmetry into the ocean around seven pm). In short this is where I want to be, my head and my location have co-incided perfectly. I feel very content. Nevertheless it is precisely here, out of this contentment that the nostalgia begins - is allowed to begin as I stop moving - and it is celebratory as much as it is a wistful acknowledgment of past time, you can ask Patrick Swizzle or Leonard Cohen.



[i] I want to defend this word melancholy. To wrestle or distinguish it from depression or flagrant navel gazing and introspection with which it is often confused. Melancholy is something that I think can be defined as much by its great beauty and sense of rapture as it is by sadness and introspection. This sentiment seems to me to be exemplified in the music of Leonard Cohen. If it is sad (and often it is) it is sadness elevated to an art form, and one that does not fail to admit the light as well as the dark; broadly life’s sense of wonder as well as it’s disappointments and absurdities. In this sense it seems to me one of the most balanced and ultimately honest and of all sentiments – who has not at some point of great euphoria wondered why life is not always such? And in that thought encapsulated a kind of melancholy that cannot be called sad? (As an aside; a sad or melancholy song that successfully communicates what is I think a not uncommon feeling seems to me to be ultimately positive and edifying. Conversely ‘depressing music’ will always be something that seems utterly compromised by its mode of coming into being – derivative or commercial schlock in any idiom or style that seems bereft of its own voice).

[ii] I only hope these concise scribbles somehow retain their ability to jog the details of these events when I do actually come to set them down.

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Agua Caliente and Machu Picchu

A slow ride up through some smaller Inca sites until dusk in Ollantaytambo (via the Inca ampitheatre). The train being craziliy expensive (and in any case somehow too easy). The last meal for a while. Another incredibly bumpy, precipitous taxi ride to Santa Teresa in rain where we spend the night.


Waking at six. San Pedro and a cigarette for breakfast. Hot water from a remote first aid tent. Jordi mixing. Viscous green. A cartwheel on a trainline. Walking. Repetition, sweat and nausea. The wood slats being ou---t—ofs-y—n------c with my stride. Throwing up before a bridge, a little weightless, clean. Feeling better. The sun suddenly hot, present. Jordi, Thai and I bathing in pools around rapids – lots of butterflies, lucid and slowing down a little. Guarda and Lara waiting ahead on the platform giggling like little girls, covered in mosquito bites.


The incredible sound of white water, blocks of sound. Blocks of rock rising thousands of meters out of jungle. Valley gorge. Something about a proper relation to nature. Continuous awe.


Agua Caliente…utter disorientation. Jungle china town. The seeming plastic tin pot temporality of virtually all human constructions (endeavour?). Rain in mild air. Head back on rucksack, to find the middle of something. Turning to the river over and over, second wave, thinking to consolidate, rain on skin, ice cream – a worthy human endeavour.


Strange restaurant table, suddenly enclosed. Food, eyeing bags, others. Guide police lunching with tourists, ‘Inca laughter’. The wildly vacillating turns of my appetite. Fish proving good. Beer too. Ugliest town square I’ve ever seen (fascinating for it). Guada and Lara reprimanded by officials for mounting and embracing its cheap Inca statue. The eponymous hot baths full of fat tourists in brown water. Sickened some. Turning around, tickets in hand. A red hotel room with synthetic sheets. Skin. Sleep. Later, a lasagne, strung out Shithead – losing a lot.


Morning, bright. Out on the street. Late start. Sat facing tracks. Guarda and Jordi already on the cactus. Not holding it down.[1] Climbing steps – an inordinate number. Everything smelling of San Pedro. Ritz crisps. Fruit in a bag. Utter fatigue. Vomiting (again). Relief (again). Jordi’s multicoloured fatigue, green/red under yellow hat. Lara’s bitten up legs. Folk descending. ‘Quince minutos’ they said, every one.


At the top. Parking lot. Plastic ticket office, Americans, cars, buses…a glass of water that costs two meals. The potential that it’s a horrible mistake. Then through the gate and just staring…every direction an unmitigated visual pleasure, a fact in a natural wonder, an intervention so eccentric and perfect it defies belief. The inability somehow to believe it, comprehend it visually. Reframed, built, crazily built.


Two equadorians chasing the girls, but not quite hassling. Official whistles and cigarettes. All kinds of tourist. Its hot. We have no water – just warm yogurt and a mango. Try not to think about it. Climbing again suddenly easier, weight lifted, in mind, passing energy, mood, desire, laughter…charged silent looking. I didn’t think about it. On the steps - the saint who hands me a full bottle of water.


Coming down. Descending finally, the first time all day, in both senses - as if to be synchronised as such. The evening light bathing the whole place in new angles and dimensions. Light hitting rock on a grand scale. More whistles. Four reluctantly ushered out.


Fatigue. An expensive bus I dislike. Restaurant with kindly owner. Pizza. Coca Cola - the best drink ever (for a moment). A better hostel. Hot shower. In the plaza with Guarda later. Warm evening. Gentle, straight, philosophical. Some sweets in my pocket.


A slow, bumpy ride back in Cuzco in a very hot van. Realising how dangerous it was in daylight. Quickly becoming bored of the two fractionally differing locations for my feet. Later. Half hearted clubbing. Torrential rain on the last day. The market and the kindly juice lady for the last time. Saying goodbye to Lara and Guarda. Missing them all – Manuel, Jordi, Joakim, Lara, Guarda.


[1] I’m sorry vomiting features so profusely in this and other accounts but it is only out of a desire for a kind of veracity and, it is fair to say that vomiting has been, if not (mercifully) a defining feature, then certainly something of a recurring theme.

Some Notes On Copacabana and Isla Del Sol


Copacapana harbour. Four grown men getting scared in a plastic peddle boat shaped like a swan….


Converting most everyone to the game of ‘Shithead’.


The utter strangeness of the spectacle of a priest blessing a meticulously decorated queue of cars whilst the family sup beers and set off fireworks underneath the back wheels.


Thinking Copacapana was a bit of hippy tourist shell with nothing in its middle and, after three days, feeling my first impression was probably right.


Saying goodbe to Joakim on the boat to Isla Del Sol.


Manuel’s obsession (which began in Sucre) with the Lithuanian girl and her ‘Brother’ reaching new levels of self deception.


The weird combination of charming curiosity and utter cynicism evident in the children on Isla Del Sol.


Forgetting my trunks (again).


Amazing vistas walking from the north to the south side of the island. (Isla Del Sol is the highest lake of its kind in the world, so I´m told.


Not seeing any men of the village for days. Wondering what the fuck they were doing and where.

The proportion of children working in South America is, I suppose, a necessity but still I feel quite over-joyed to see a few playing – no purpose (or commerce) involved.


A lighter exploding in my pocket on a floating straw island during a very tranquil wedding ceremony. The faces of the two fisherman sat next to me. One asking me in the most sincere and concerned tone ‘Amigo?’ and me, bemused, feeling myself up for wounds. Thinking for a moment I had been assassinated in the most bizarre location ever. I guess this was funnier than I can transcribe it.

Some Other Notes On Coroico


Chancing upon the very well located £5 a night hotel complete with sauna and pool after the ride. Likewise a three course dinner in the village costing around a pound.


A Plaza of Argentineans throwing highly amused Bolivian children around on a Friday night. My introduction to Lara, Guada and Thai who were all perched on a baron circular border very drunk on Vodka.


Enjoying real heat after a long absence.


Swimming.


Walking out of the village to the sound of Bolivian festival rehearsals (all generations included). (These rehearsals were in fact going on in every place I stopped in Bolivia and, on the evidence I saw, the Februray Carnival would be well worth seeing).


The happy discovery of Fernet by the bottle in the village square.


Fernet assisted activities:

Jordi cooking up an superb asado that garnered the praise even of Argentineans – which is no small feat.

Lara and Guarda dancing like crazy women.

Jordi and Pablo successfully bribing the night porter with chicken.

Manuel playing God.

The near silent disco.

Jumping in the pool at night.

Sunday. Playing an elaborate form of Whist that involves divination in a way. Eating Pizza. Going to the sauna.[1]



[1] Saunas, I have realised, always tend to fill me with a quiet sense of horror. I’m not sure if the idea of sweating profusely with a group of strangers in the dark offends my British sensibilities or if it approaches and then cruelly retracts any erotic potentiality it may seem to precipitate by its sheer discomfort. Perhaps by a similar token of Britishness, I am just better predisposed to enduring intense cold than I am to intense heat or I dislike them because I always feel like a stockbroker or some such from a typically cheesy American movie. In any case the entire fibre of my being tends to yell at me to get out of a sauna about as soon as I’ve entered one.

'The Most Dangerous Road In The World'

I was warned that it was a dangerous eccentricity organised for and indulged by international tourists alone. They allegedly ‘lose’ a tourist a month (though I don’t believe it). I was however, for reasons that quite escape me, adamant I wanted to cycle down the most dangerous road in the world.

I have said I dislike tours. I also have little time for the vest topped Pepsi Max image of adrenaline sports, but there I was at the summit wanting to get on with it as if the size of my penis depended on it.

It was, to my surprise, an utterly thrilling experience to descend 3000 meters on a precipical dirt track in an hour and a half. It was also, when I took the time to lift my head from my vibrating handlebars, stunningly beautiful. I rode a few feet behind the guide, who also rode like a lunatic, grinning like an idiot through some of the most beautiful sub tropical scenary, rivers and waterfalls and eventually into the village of Coroico. I have a t-shirt to prove it (though I have yet to cut off the sleeves). I am a bit of lunatic on a bike, maybe this is the real reason I never learnt to drive.

Some Brief Notes On La Paz



Loki: A pretty soulless party hostel with great beds. It’s a little Europe/Australasia party bubble. The incongreguity of no-one speaking Spanish, even the manager, in the middle of South America.


Vomiting in my sleep onto those same great beds. The shock.

The spectacle of thousands of different coloured buildings rising up out of all sides of a valley up to 4000 meters above sea level.

The Museum of Bolivian Contemporary Art actually being a collection of, from what I could tell, one’s man’s fascination with Surrealist A-Level Art, complete with (the not exclusively) adolescent obsession with large breasts in various states of exposure. Quite bad.

Meeting Narda in Plaza Sucre (which is virtually impossible to get to owing to the fact that it is actually a major roundabout and not really a square at all). Talking Bolivian politics and romantic art in a weird food ‘mall’ eating Japanese food. Watching a remarkably authentic Bolivian Green Day tribute act. Very strange but weirdly satisfying all the same.

Going to watch Manuel’s friends’ band rehearse in uptown La Paz. Encountering the Latin Janis Joplin.

Manuel’s face on drums (whilst improvising his way through a song he has never heard before). Quite special.

Manuel’s face upon first sampling an authentic Bolivian-English-Indian Chicken Madras. Also quite special.

Feeling as if, for health reasons, or I don’t know what, I didn’t completely find La Paz in some sense…like I missed something.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Agua Caliente and Machu Picchu

A slow ride up through some smaller Inca sites until dusk in Ollantaytambo (via the Inca ampitheatre). The train being craziliy expensive (and in any case somehow too easy). The last meal for a while. Another incredibly bumpy, precipitous taxi ride to Santa Teresa in rain where we spend the night.

Waking at six. San Pedro and a cigarette for breakfast. Hot water from a remote first aid tent. Jordi mixing. Viscous green. A cartwheel on a trainline. Walking. Repetition, sweat and nausea. The wood slats being ou---t—ofs-y—n------c with my stride. Throwing up before a bridge, a little weightless, clean. Feeling better. The sun suddenly hot, present. Jordi, Thai and I bathing in pools around rapids – lots of butterflies, lucid and slowing down a little. Guarda and Lara waiting ahead on the platform giggling like little girls, covered in mosquito bites.

The incredible sound of white water, blocks of sound. Blocks of rock rising thousands of meters out of jungle. Valley gorge. Something about a proper relation to nature. Continuous awe. I: small, fractional, humbled…a part.

Agua Caliente…utter disorientation. Jungle china town. The seeming plastic tin pot temporality of virtually all human constructions (endeavour?). Rain in mild air. Head back on rucksack, to find the middle of something. Turning to the river over and over, second wave, thinking to consolidate, rain on skin, ice cream – a worthy human endeavour.

Strange restaurant table, suddenly enclosed. Food, eyeing bags, others. Guide police lunching with tourists, ‘Inca laughter’. The wildly vacillating turns of my appetite. Fish proving good. Beer too. Ugliest town square I’ve ever seen (fascinating for it). Guada and Lara reprimanded by officials for mounting and embracing its cheap Inca statue. The eponymous hot baths full of fat tourists in brown water. Sickened some. Turning around, tickets in hand. A red hotel room with synthetic sheets. Skin. Sleep. Later, a lasagne, strung out Shithead – losing a lot.

Morning, bright. Out on the street. Late start. Sat facing tracks. Guarda and Jordi already on the cactus. Not holding it down.[1] Climbing steps – an inordinate number. Everything smelling of San Pedro. Ritz crisps. Fruit in a bag. Utter fatigue. Vomiting (again). Relief (again). Jordi’s multicoloured fatigue, green/red under yellow hat. Lara’s bitten up legs. Folk descending. ‘Quince minutos’ they said, every one.

At the top. Parking lot. Plastic ticket office, Americans, cars, buses…a glass of water that costs two meals. The potential that it’s a horrible mistake. Then through the gate and just staring…every direction an unmitigated visual pleasure, a fact in a natural wonder, an intervention so eccentric and perfect it defies belief. The inability somehow to believe it, comprehend it visually. Reframed, built, crazily built.

Two equadorians chasing the girls, but not quite hassling. Official whistles and cigarettes. All kinds of tourist. Its hot. We have no water – just warm yogurt and a mango. Try not to think about it. Climbing again suddenly easier, weight lifted, in mind, passing energy, mood, desire, laughter…charged silent looking. I didn’t think about it. On the steps - the saint who hands me a full bottle of water.

Coming down. Descending finally, the first time all day, in both senses - as if to be synchronised as such. The evening light bathing the whole place in new angles and dimensions. Light hitting rock on a grand scale. More whistles. Four reluctantly ushered out.

Fatigue. An expensive bus I dislike. Restaurant with kindly owner. Pizza. Coca Cola - the best drink ever (for a moment). A better hostel. Hot shower. In the plaza with Guarda later. Warm evening. Gentle, straight, philosophical. Some sweets in my pocket.

A slow, bumpy ride back in Cuzco in a very hot van. Realising how dangerous it was in daylight. Quickly becoming bored of the two fractionally differing locations for my feet. Later. Half hearted clubbing. Torrential rain on the last day. The market and the kindly juice lady for the last time. Saying goodbye to Lara and Guarda. Missing them all – Manuel, Jordi, Joakim, Lara, Guarda.





[1] I’m sorry vomiting features so heavily in these accounts but it is only out of a desire for a kind of veracity and, it is fair to say that vomiting has been, if not (mercifully) a defining feature, then certainly something of a recurring theme.